Eugénie Béziat: all about the flavors and the scents

I’d say it’s poetic, fragrant, and highly personal. My background is rather unconventional, and this comes through on the plate in a signature that’s uniquely mine. The olfactory world is a major source of inspiration, so my cuisine is always seeking harmony between flavors and aromas. Beyond aesthetics, what interests me with each dish is the emotion, the feelings evoked. When I talk with perfumers, we share a similar quest for the quintessence of taste. When I work with artichokes, I prioritize the taste of artichokes.

Among fragrant botanicals: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and even patchouli, which is very rarely used in cooking. In my dish featuring white asparagus and patchouli, there’s a real sense of play between these two ingredients. I also place great importance on sauces, the heart and soul of French cuisine.

It developed over time. When I was ten, I used to collect recipes. My parents loved to entertain and often talked about fine dining. In college, I bought high-end culinary magazines and kept a little notebook to record my thoughts on food pairings. One day, to celebrate my 20th birthday, my parents took me to Hélène Darroze’s restaurant. It’s funny when I think about it! I remember an oyster paired with a Granny Smith apple. I loved the way it moved me, and told myself that’s what I wanted to do.

Yes, of course, just like in any creative profession where you’re constantly exploring, seeking revelations, a combination that just clicks. I’m always finding connections to my own craft in an exhibition or a painting. Sometimes they inspire an idea for a dish. I’m fascinated by the worlds of taste and smell, where we’re pushing at the boundaries of science and neuroscience. Curiosity can take you a long way.

When I arrived, I went to the archives to immerse myself in the Ritz Paris DNA, much like an artistic director at a couture house. I wanted to pay homage to Auguste Escoffier, but not in the way people might expect. During my research, I discovered a visionary man, extremely sensitive. He lived in the Villeneuve-Loubet area, where I developed my culinary style and earned my first star. He grew up among the perfume flowers around Grasse, and this finds an echo in my dishes. He sculpted wax flowers to decorate the tables. At the Espadon restaurant, it’s not just about the cuisine, but the setting as well. We have a floating herbarium with aromatic herbs encased in crystal sheets, and the dining room opens onto the kitchen garden that feeds into our cuisine.

An experience, and an emotional bond. We’re always connected to what’s on our plates, like Proust with his famous madeleine. Some people might cry, while others are simply filled with joy or gratitude. Recently, a guest told me, “You took me back to Kabylia, 20 years ago!” I had prepared an artichoke with rosemary and sunflower seeds, and she was profoundly moved.

I have to admit, I feel like I’ve already made my main dream come true: to turn my passion into the job I do every day. Each day I tell myself how incredible it is to be here, to be part of this team. Just by being here, we’re making a little bit of culinary history. Beyond that, my main desire is to keep on exploring.